US embassy cable - 97BANDARSERIBEGAWAN822

UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 06 BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN 000822 
 
 
DEPT FOR EAP/PIMBS 
 
E.O. 12958: N/A 
TAGS: PGOV, PHUM, SOCI, BX 
SUBJECT: ASIAWEEK'S "BRUNEI FUN?" ARTICLE 
CAUSES A STIR 
 
1.  SUMMARY AND COMMENT:  A LONG ARTICLE 
ENTITLED "BRUNEI FUN?" APPEARED IN THE 
SEPTEMBER 12 ISSUE OF ASIAWEEK MAGAZINE.  IN 
THE ARTICLE, SENIOR ASIAWEEK CORRESPONDENT 
ROGER MITTEN, EXAMINES CURRENT TRENDS IN 
BRUNEI SOCIETY, POLITICS, CULTURE, AND THE 
BRUNEI ROYAL FAMILY.  THE CONTEXT OF THE 
ARTICLE IS TNE BRUNEI GOVERNMENT'S EFFORTS TO 
PROMOTE THE COUNTRY, A SELF-LABELED 
CONSERVATIVE MUSLIM MONARCHY,  AS A TOURIST 
DESTINATION, AND THE INHERENT CONFLICT OF 
VALUES THIS REVEALS. 
 
2.  THE THRUST OF THE ARTICLE IS THAT BRUNEI 
IS LIBERALIZING SOCIALLY AND POLITICALLY, AND 
THAT THIS LOOSENING UP HAS TACIT APPROVAL 
FROM THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF GOVERNMENT, I.E. 
THE SULTAN HIMSELF, BUT IT IS MLTTEN'S 
ALLEGATIONS ABOUT RELATIONS BETWEEN THE 
SULTAN, PRINCE JEFRI AND PRINCE MOHAMED WHICH 
ARE PROVOKING CONTROVERSY.  MITTEN STATES 
THAT PRINCE JEFRI DID NOT STEP DOWN AS 
FINANCE MINISTER, EARLIER THIS YEAR, BUT WAS 
SACKED BY THE SULTAN FOR FINANCIAL 
MISDEALINGS IN CONNECTION WITH JEFRI'S MEGA- 
CORPORATION - AMEDEO.  MITTEN ALSO REPORTS ON 
PRINCE JEFRI'S ALLEGED PHILANDERING AND THE 
MISS USA CASE.  IT IS SURPRISING THAT MITTEN 
NAMES BRUNEI GOVERNMENT AND PRIVATE SECTOR 
OFFICIALS AS SOURCES, QUOTING THEIR UNUSUALLY 
CANDID COMMENTS ON  THE SULTAN'S WEALTH, 
BRUNEI'S ILLICIT NIGHT LIFE, INTERNAL 
SECURITY, BOOTLEGGING AND PRESS FREEDOM. 
THE ARTICLE CAN BE DOWNLOADED FROM THE 
HOMEPAGE OF ASIAWEEK MAGAZINE ON THE 
INTERNET, BUT COMMERICAL COPIES OF THE 
MAGAZINE HAVE BEEN WITHHELD BY THE GOB. 
EMBOFF HEARD EARLIER IN THE WEEK THAT THE GOB 
PLANNED TO RESPOND TO THE ASIAWEEK ARTICLE, 
AN UNUSUAL MOVE IN ITSELF, AND THE GOB DID SO 
ON SEPTEMBER 19 IN A FRONT-PAGE ARTICLE IN 
THE BORNEO BULLETIN, WHICH WILL BE SUBJECT OF 
SEPTEL.  POST IS TRANSMITTING THE ASIAWEEK 
ARTICLE IN FULL, DESPITE ITS LENGTH, TO GIVE 
WASHINGTON A FLAVOR OF THE CURRENT BRUNEI 
SCENE. 
 
END SUMMARY AND COMMENT. 
 
BEGIN TEXT: 
 
3.  SEPTEMBER 12, 1997 - FUN BRUNEI? 
 
MIDNIGHT, THURSDAY. A DIM RESTAURANT FULL OF 
YOUNG PEOPLE ON A SIDE STREET IN GADONG, JUST 
OUTSIDE BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN, CAPITAL OF 
BRUNEI. PORTRAITS OF THE COUNTRY'S RULER, 
SULTAN RASSANAL BOLKIAH, AND HIS TWO WIVES, 
SALEHA AND MARIAM, HANG ON THE WALL. CALLED 
'HIS MAJESTY' OR PLAIN 'HM,' HIS BENIGN 
VISAGE GAZES DOWN ON THE SMOKY ROOM. THERE IS 
MUSIC MIXED WITH CHATTER AND LAUGHTER. 
FILIPINO WAITRESSES BANTER WITH THE GUYS; 
COUPLES GAZE INTO EACH OTHER'S EYES. SOME 
ORDER "SPECIAL TEA" -- BEER SERVED IN CUPS 
FROM A TEAPOT. INELEGANT, PERHAPS, BUT IN 
"DRY" BRUNEI, BEER IS BEER. NEXT DOOR, THE 
DRAPES OF ANOTHER EATERY ARE DRAWN; THE 
TABLES AND CHAIRS SHOVED AGAINST THE WALLS. 
LOUDER, FUNKIER MUSIC BEGINS AND THE GUYS AND 
GALS BEGIN TO BOOGIE. IT'S ALL DONE BEHIND 
CURTAINS AND WITH A LOOKOUT; BUT, STILL, THIS 
IS THE ALLEGEDLY STAID AND ULTRA-CONSERVATIVE 
ISLAMIC SULTANATE OF BRUNEI. WHAT GIVES? 
ALTHOUGH THE SCENE IS NOT YET COMMON, IT IS 
ONE OF MANY SIGNS THAT THIS TINY, OIL-RICH 
NATION ON THE NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO IS 
LOOSENING UP. THIS IS NO ACCIDENT. HM'S 
GOVERNMENT IS PROACTIVELY "SELLING" HIS 
COUNTRY AS A FUN PLACE TO VISIT. IN BANDAR'S 
NEWEST MALL, EURO-CHIC IS AVAILABLE AT TRENDY 
BOUTIQUES -- ALL DISPLAYING SEXY WINDOW ADS 
THAT WOULD NOT BE OUT OF PLACE IN PARIS OR 
NEW YORK. THERE ARE SWISH ITALIAN. JAPANESE 
AND SICHUAN RESTAURANTS ALONGSIDE THE USUAL 
MCDONALD'S, PIZZA HUT AND DELIFRANCE. THERE'S 
A CYBER CAFE;. CAFFEINE ADDICTS CAN PARTAKE 
IN 24-HOUR COFFEE SHOPS. BOOKSTORES SELL 
FOREIGN TITLES THAT GET PAST TNE CENSORS 
FASTER THAN IN MALAYSIA OR INDONESIA. 
 
4.  A NEW CINEPLEX WILL SOON OPEN TO 
COMPLEMENT BANDAR'S TWO CINEMAS (REMEMBER, 
THIS IS A TOWN OF ONLY 55,000 PEOPLE). 
CAPITAL GOLD, WITH ITS OUTRAGEOUS, CAMPY DJS, 
BLARES ON CAR RADIOS REAL-TIME DIRECT FROM 
LONDON. THANKS TO UNFETTERED SATELLITE TV, 
THERE'S LOTS OF CHOICE ON THE TUBE. VIDEO 
SHOPS RENT CURRENT MOVIES. SKIMPILY CLAD 
WHITNEY HOUSTON AND PELVIS-THRUSTING MICHAEL 
JACKSON (WHO HAD PROBLEMS IN NEIGHBORING 
MALAYSIA), HAVE BOTH PERFORMED WITHOUT HASSLE 
AT BRUNEI'S FAMED DISNEYLAND-TYPE JERUDONG 
PARK -- WHICH STILL PAYS TRIBUTE TO WACKO 
JACKO NIGHTLY IN A SPECTACULAR LASER SHOW. 
 
5.  MALAYSIAN LAWYER V.L. KANDAN RECENTLY 
VISITED BRUNEI FOR TNE FIRST TIME IN 10 
YEARS. HE WAS BLOWN AWAY. "THE CHANGE IS 
FANTASTIC. THERE ARE SO MANY MORE THINGS TO 
SEE. JERUDONG PARK IS WONDERFUL, THE BEST IN 
SOUTHEAST ASIA." A WESTERN DIPLOMAT EXPLAINS 
WHAT'S HAPPENING: "ALL THESE THINGS -- STAR 
TV, CAPITAL RADIO, THE FEISTIER BORNEO 
BULLETIN, THE ASEAN AND APEC MEETINGS -- ARE 
CHANGING BRUNEI FOR THE BETTER." THIS IS NO 
FULL-BORE PERESTROIKA. BUT IT'S A DISTINCT 
THAW. IF NOT EVERYBODY IS JUMPING IN WITH 
BOTH FEET, MANY ARE AT LEAST DIPPING A TOE. 
 
6.  TAKE ALCOHOL. OFFICIALLY, BRUNEI WENT DRY 
IN 1991. YET BEER IS EASY TO GET, HARD LIQUOR 
NOT MUCN MORE DIFFICULT, WINE TOUGHER BECAUSE 
FEW LOCALS DRINK IT -- ALTHOUGH SPIFFY DEALS 
RESTAURANT AT THE SHERATON WILL DISPENSE WITH 
THE TEACUP CHARADE AND PROVIDE WINE GLASSES 
AND AN ICE BUCKET FOR THE BRING-YOUR-OWN 
CROWD. "I DON'T KNOW ANYONE WHO HAS A PROBLEM 
BUYING BEER," SAYS PETER STEELE, MD OF BRUNEI 
OIL OPERATIONS FOR NEW ZEALAND'S FLETCHER 
CHALLENGE. "YOU ORDER A CASE FOR $50 OR $60; 
IT'S DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME." MOST OF IT 
COMES BY BOAT FROM LIMBANG, DOWNRIVER IN EAST 
MALAYSIA'S SARAWAK STATE. 
 
7.  ASIDE FROM OIL AND GAS, BOOTLEGGING IS 
BRUNEI'S THRIVINGEST INDUSTRY. TOURISM CHIEF 
SHEIKH JAMALUDDIN MOHAMED ALLOWS "WE MAKE 
BOOTLEGGERS RICH." GRAVEL BARGES SMUGGLE IN 
THOUSANDS OF CASES OF BEER. "GO TO THE 
BEACH," SAYS BANDAR LAWYER AHMAD ISA, SON OF 
HOME AFFAIRS MINISTER ISA IBRAHIM. "YOU'LL 
SEE THAI WORKERS OPENLY DRINKING CANS OF 
HEINEKEN AND EXPATS AND TOURISTS WITH BULGING 
ICE COOLERS. IS IT A BIG DEAL?" 
 
8.  BANDAR MAYOR RAHMAN MOHIDDIN SEEMS TO 
THINK IT IS. "TNERE SHOULD BE NO DRINKING," 
HE SAYS. "WE CANNOT BE GOOD MUSLIMS AND ALLOW 
DRINKING IN PUBLIC PLACES. IN PRIVATE, IT IS 
OKAY." FOR NOW, ESPECIALLY SINCE MUSLIMS 
RARELY HIT THE BEACH OR DINE AT DEALS, THE 
SURREPTITIOUS IMBIBING RARELY CAUSES OFFENSE. 
BUT RESTAURATEURS EXPLOIT THE UNOFFICIAL 
LAXITY AT THEIR OWN RISK. TRENDY ITALIAN 
EATERY FRATINI'S EARNED AN OFFICIAL WARNING 
FOR ALLOWING BYO CUSTOMERS TO INDULGE TOO 
OVERTLY. 
 
9.  THE WARNINGS MAY BECOME REDUNDANT, THANKS 
TO THE TOURISM THRUST. BRUNEI WANTS TO 
ATTRACT FAMILIES, BUT EVEN VACATIONING MUMS 
AND DADS LIKE TO WINE AND DINE. SOON THEY MAY 
BE ABLE TO, WHEN THE FIVE-STAR JERUDONG 
RESORT HOTEL OPENS LATER THIS YEAR. BUILT BY 
AMEDEO DEVELOPMENT, A COMPANY RUN BY HM'S 
BROTHER, PRINCE JEFRI, IT WILL LIKELY PROVIDE 
ALCOHOL AND ENTERTAINMENT. 
 
10.  THE SULTAN, 51, INHERITED THE THRONE 
UPON HIS FATHER'S ABDICATION IN 1967. BESIDES 
JEFRI, HE HAS SIX SISTERS AND TWO BROTHERS, 
PRINCE MOHAMED, THE FOREIGN MINISTER, AND 
PRINCE SUFRI, WHO IS ILL AND PLAYS A 
PERIPHERAL ROLE IN NATIONAL AFFAIRS. HM CAME 
TO POWER FIVE YEARS AFTER A BRIEF FLIRTATION 
WITH DEMOCRACY; WHEN THE FIRST AND ONLY POLL 
IN 1962 TURNED VIOLENT, THE VICTORIOUS BRUNEI 
PEOPLE'S PARTY WAS BANNED AND THE 
CONSTITUTION SUSPENDED. A STATE OF EMERGENCY 
REMAINS TO THIS DAY. 
 
11.  INCREASINGLY, HOWEVER, PEOPLE ARE 
WILLING TO TALK OPENLY ABOUT POLITICS AND 
OFFICIAL ACCOUNTABILITY. HM HIMSELF SPOKE ON 
THE SUBJECT DURING A VISIT TO KUALA LUMPUR 
LAST WEEK. AS THE 21ST CENTURY DAWNS, THE 
SULTAN KNOWS ABSOLUTIST RULE CAN'T LAST. 
THERE HAS BEEN OFFICIAL TALK ABOUT ADOPTING 
LIMITED DEMOCRACY. HM APPARENTLY FAVORS THE 
CHINA TRAJECTORY: ENRICHMENT, THEN, CAREFULLY 
CIRCUMSCRIBED POLLS. INSIDERS SAY HM IS 
GRADUALLY LOOSENING HIS GRIP ON LIFESTYLES 
AND THE MEDIA SO PEOPLE CAN GET ACQUAINTED 
WITH THE ISSUES AND, AT SOME POINT, VOTE 
INTELLIGENTLY. 
 
12.  CERTAINLY, MORE PEOPLE ARE WILLING TO 
SPEAK OUT. ASIDE FROM A MALAY-LANGUAGE 
WEEKLY, THERE IS ONLY THE ENGLISH-LANGUAGE 
BORNEO BULLETIN (THERE ARE NO BRUNEI CHINESE 
PAPERS). GIVEN HEAVY MEDIA RESTRICTIONS, THE 
BULLETIN IS ADMIRED FOR PUSHING THE ENVELOPE 
-- PARTICULARLY IN ITS ACERBIC LETTERS PAGE. 
CRITICAL LETTERS ARE TOLERATED BECAUSE THE 
PAPER IS OWNED BY HM'S BROTHER, PRINCE 
MOHAMED, AND BECAUSE IT ACTS AS AN ESCAPE 
VALVE THAT LETS AUTHORITIES KNOW WHERE THE 
NATIONAL PRESSURE POINTS ARE. 
 
13.  NOT THAT THE BULLETIN IS UNCAGED. 
RECENTLY, IT REPORTED THAT AN ISSUE OF ASIA 
TIMES MAGAZINE (A SUPPLEMENT IN THE WIDELY 
SOLD SINGAPORE STRAITS TIMES), HAD BEEN 
BANNED OVER AN ARTICLE DEEMED INCOMPATIBLE 
WITH SOCIETY. EVERYONE IMMEDIATELY WANTED TO 
KNOW WHAT IT WAS ALL ABOUT. "WE WONDERED," 
RECALLS A DIPLOMAT, "IF IT WAS ANOTHER STORY 
ABOUT JEFRI'S WOMANIZING OR HM'S RICHES, OR 
WHAT?" IT TURNED OUT THAT TNE ITEM WAS SEEN 
TO GLORIFY DRINKING. THE HOME AFFAIRS 
MINISTRY CHASTISED THE BULLETIN FOR REVEALING 
THE BAN. THE INTERNAL SECURITY DEPARTMENT 
(ISD) WANTED TO KNOW IF THE EDITOR WAS TRYING 
TO STIR UP TROUBLE. 
 
14.  LATER, ISD MEN VISITED THE BULLETIN'S 
OFFICES TO DEMAND ADDRESSES OF READERS WHO 
HAD WRITTEN LETTERS COMPLAINING ABOUT 
GOVERNMENT SERVICES AND PUBLIC UTILITIES. "IF 
WE'D COMPLIED." SAID AN EDITORIAL STAFFER, 
"THEY'D HAVE GIVEN THESE PEOPLE A HARD TIME." 
WITHOUT BULLETIN OWNER PRINCE MOHAMED'S 
BACKING, EDITORS PROBABLY WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO 
STAND UP TO ISD STAFF AND CONTINUE PRINTING 
SUCH LETTERS. ANOTHER SIGN BRUNEI IS OPENING 
UP. 
 
15.  THE LETTERS ARE SURPRISINGLY TRENCHANT; 
READERS WAX INDIGNANT ABOUT SERVICES IN RURAL 
AREAS -- WATER AND POWER SUPPLY TO VILLAGES 
IS ERRATIC. MANY COMPLAINTS RELATE TO 
TRAFFIC, ESPECIALLY ARBITRARY ROAD BLOCKS, 
DELAYED CAR TAX REFUNDS, HIGH PARKING FEES, 
STEEP CAB FARES ($26 FROM THE AIRPORT TO 
NEARBY BANDAR) AND THE 20T-200T INCREASE IN 
VEHICLE PURCHASE TAX INTRODUCED IN 1995. 
OTHERS LAMENT PHONE CHARGES, GRAFT, RED TAPE 
AND CIVIL SERVICE PAY. 
 
16.  THIS NEW WILLINGNESS TO CRITICIZE 
AUTHORITY CAN GET PRETTY INTENSE. WHEN 
CUSTOMERS AT PIZZA HUT DISCOVERED THAT THE 
CHICKEN TOPPING WAS UNAVAILABLE "DUE TO A 
TEMPORARY SHORTAGE," THEY TURNED THEIR SCORN 
ON A GOVERNMENT DECREE THAT ONLY HALAL 
CHICKEN (SLAUGHTERED THE MUSLIM WAY) COULD BE 
IMPORTED. THE DICTAT WAS FINE IN PRINCIPLE, 
EXCEPT SUFFICIENT HALAL SUPPLIES HAD NOT BEEN 
ARRANGED. WITH THE CURBS IMPOSED ON WESTERN 
CHICKEN AND THE HALAL SUPPLY FROM MALAYSIA 
UNABLE TO MEET DEMAND, THERE WAS A SHORTFALL. 
SO NO CHICKEN PIZZAS. BOOTLEGGERS NOW HAVE A 
NEW WAY TO GET RICH: SMUGGLING POULTRY. 
 
INCREASINGLY BRUNEIANS DARE TO DISCUSS 
EXTERNAL AFFAIRS -- THOUGH THEY RELY ON 
OUTSIDE SOURCES TO GET THEIR INFORMATION. 
CRITICAL COVERAGE OF REGIONAL ISSUES IS 
SIMPLY NOT PERMITTED IN THE LOCAL MEDIA. "WE 
DON'T CARRY NEWS ON ASEAN THAT REFLECTS 
NEGATIVELY ON THE GROUP," SAYS BADARUDDIN 
GHANI. WHO RUNS RADIO TELEVISION BRUNEI. "A 
PROTEST ABOUT EAST TIMOR WOULD BE IGNORED." 
 
17.  AS FOR HM, WELL, HE IS A CLOSED BOOK -- 
CERTAINLY IN THE LOCAL MEDIA. OUTSIDERS KNOW 
MORE ABOUT HIM THAN HIS OWN SUBJECTS DO, AND 
TOURISM CHIEF JAMALUDDIN WANTS TO EXPLOIT THE 
RECOGNITION FACTOR. "WHAT'S THE FIRST THING 
THAT COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU THINK OF BRUNEI?" 
HE ASKS. "THE SULTAN. THE WORLD'S RICHEST MAN 
AND ALL THAT." JAMALUDDIN OFFERS THIS SLOGAN: 
"VISIT THE LAND OF THE SULTAN OF BRUNEI, THIS 
IS HIS HOME." AT HOME, HOWEVER, BRUNEIANS 
PREFER TO RESPECT THE MONARCH'S PRIVACY. 
LAWYER AHMAD ISA ASKS: "WHY DO WE NEED TO 
KNOW ABOUT HM?" 
 
18.  WELL, PERHAPS BECAUSE HE IS KING, PM, 
DEFENSE MINISTER, FINANCE MINISTER, COMMANDER 
OF THE ARMED FORCES, HEAD OF THE ROYAL BRUNEI 
POLICE, THE PETROLEUM UNIT, BROADCASTING, 
INFORMATION SERVICES, AND SUPREME HEAD OF 
ISLAM IN BRUNEI. NOT TO MENTION ALL THAT 
DOUGH: $3B BILLION AT LAST COUNT. (LAST WEEK 
HIS GOVERNMENT REPORTEDLY SPENT HUNDREDS OF 
MILLIONS TO HELP REVERSE THE SLIDE OF THE 
MALAYSIAN AND SINGAPORE CURRENCIES.) HM HAS A 
FLEET OF PLANES, INCLUDING BOEINGS AND AN 
AIRBUS, PARKED IN HIS OWN TERMINAL. ASKED 
WHAT HE THINKS ABOUT ALL THIS, PROMINENT 
BUSINESSMAN RAZALI JOHARI'S RESPONSE IS 
PRETTY TYPICAL. "WHY SHOULDN'T HM HAVE SO 
MUCH MONEY?" HE SAYS. "IT'S HIS COUNTRY. HE 
CAN DO NO WRONG." IF THE SULTAN IS CRITICIZED 
AT ALL, IT IS USUALLY FOR NOT REINING IN HIS 
FAMILY. 
 
NOTHING RILES CONSERVATIVES LIKE PRINCE 
JEFRI'S PENCHANT FOR BEAUTIFUL WOMEN, HIS 
FINANCIAL DEALINGS AND HIS SON HAKIM, WHO 
SHARES HIS FATHER'S PASSIONS. IT IS AN OPEN 
SECRET THAT WOMEN ARE FLOWN IN TO THE PALACES 
TO "ENTERTAIN." SHANNON MARKETIC, A FORMER 
MISS U.S.A., MADE GLOBAL HEADLINES WITH 
ALLEGATIONS OF SEXUAL ABUSE BY BRUNEI ROYALS. 
THE COCKTAIL CIRCUIT HABITUDS TALK ABOUT IT, 
BUT IT'S NOT MUCH DISCUSSED ON THE STREET 
BECAUSE THE LOCAL MEDIA IGNORED IT. HM DENIES 
THE CHARGES AND LAST MONTH A U.S. COURT RULED 
HE HAD SOVEREIGN IMMUNITY: IT REMAINED TO BE 
SEEN WHETHER BROTHER JEFRI WOULD MERIT THE 
SAME IMMUNITY. 
 
19.  THE CASE IS UNUSUAL SINCE MOST WOMEN 
INVITED TO THE SULTANATE ARE PAID WELL AND 
DON'T COMPLAIN. ONE AMBASSADOR HAS SEEN IT 
ALL TOO OFTEN. HE RECALLS "A BEAUTIFUL GIRL, 
NOT TOO INTELLIGENT" WHO WAS HIRED AS A "PR 
ASSISTANT" FOR A ROYAL. SHE TOLD HIM SHE 
"LOVED WORKING" IN BRUNEI. IN THE MORNINGS. 
SHE AND HER COLLEAGUES WERE FREE TO DO AS 
THEY PLEASED, MAYBE PLAY TENNIS OR SWIM. 
AFTER A NAP, THEY APPLIED COSMETICS AND SPENT 
THE EVENINGS ENTERTAINING. THE PR ASSISTANT, 
SAYS THE AMBASSADOR, NEVER DEFINED 
"ENTERTAIN." 
 
20.  WHATEVER IT IS, HM SEEMS TO TOLERATE IT. 
"I THINK PERHAPS HE DOESN'T ALWAYS KNOW," 
SAYS ONE DIPLOMAT. "THERE ARE JUST SO MANY 
PEOPLE IN THE ROYAL FAMILY. THOUGH JEFRI HAS 
BEEN THE MOST BLATANT." FOREIGN MINISTER 
MOHAMED, THE MOST RELIGIOUS OF HM'S THREE 
BROTHERS, HAS APPARENTLY EXPRESSED WORRY 
ABOUT JEFRI'S DECADENT BEHAVIOR (PERHAPS BEST 
EXEMPLIFIED BY HIS LUXURY YACHT TITS, WITH 
ITS TWO LIFEBOATS NIPPLE 1 AND NIPPLE 2). 
"OKAY, IT'S FAMILY," SAYS A BUSINESSMAN. "BUT 
IF HM WANTS TO STOP THIS KIND OF THING, HE 
SHOULD CRACK THE WHIP." 
 
IN FEBRUARY, HE DID -- ABRUPTLY SACKING JEFRI 
AS FINANCE MINISTER AND STRIPPING HIM OF HIS 
OTHER GOVERNMENT POSTS. IT STUNNED BRUNEIANS, 
MAINLY BECAUSE IT WAS HM'S BROTHER AND ALSO 
BECAUSE IT WAS THE FIRST CABINET CHANGE IN 10 
YEARS. WHILE BRUNEIANS WERE DENIED A CREDIBLE 
EXPLANATION, THE WORD AMONG COGNOSCENTI IS 
THAT JEFRI WENT DOWN NOT SO MUCH FOR ALLEGED 
PHILANDERING BUT BECAUSE OF FINANCIAL 
PROBLEMS INVOLVING HIS COMPAMY, AMEDEO 
DEVELOPMENT CORP. 
 
21.  FOREIGN CONSULTANTS INVOLVED IN THE WORK 
SAY THE AMEDEO SITUATION RELATES TO SO-CALLED 
ISTANA PROJECTS. FOR THESE, GOVERNMENT FUNDS 
ARE APPORTIONED FOR WORK ON ROYAL PALACES. 
OWING TO ACCOUNTABILITY PROBLEMS, HM PUT A 
STOP TO ALL ISTANA PROJECTS. NOW A LOT OF 
CONTRACTORS ARE OUT OF POCKET. THE SULTAN 
TOOK OVER THE FINANCE PORTFOLIO HIMSELF AND 
REPORTEDLY BROUGHT IN BRITISH AUDITORS TO 
SORT OUT THE MESS. THEN HE TURNED HIS GAZE ON 
OTHER MINISTERS, DROPPING BY TO SEE WHAT THEY 
WERE UP TO. 
 
22.  SINCE JEFRI WAS AN ADVOCATE OF LOOSENING 
UP. HIS FALL CAUSED A HICCUP IN PLANS TO EASE 
CONTROLS ON EVERYTHING FROM ALCOHOL TO THE 
MEDIA. BEING A FUN-LOVING SORT, HIS 
TRANSGRESSIONS HAVE BOLSTERED THE 
CONSERVATIVES. SO THE OPENING OF THE LICENSED 
RESORT AT JERUDONG HAS BEEN POSTPONED. AND 
BANDAR MAYOR RAHMAN WILL ISSUE NO MORE 
PERMITS FOR VIDEO-GAME ARCADES (THERE ARE 
ONLY FOUR ). "THAT'S WHERE KIDS GET INTO 
TROUBLE," HE SAYS. "I'M GLAD WE HAVE NO 
DISCOS OR KARAOKE LOUNGES, NO BEAUTY 
PAGEANTS." 
 
23.  OF COURSE. SUCH RESTRICTIONS DRIVE MORE 
YOUNG PEOPLE TO BEER-IN-A-TEAPOT HANGOUTS AND 
UNOFFICIAL DISCOS. PACKS OF KIDS AIMLESSLY 
TROLL THE MALLS IN THEIR BACKWARD BASEBALL 
CAPS, BAGGY JEANS AND SNEAKERS. CODDLED BY A 
WELFARE STATE, YOUTHS REFUSE MENIAL JOBS AND 
LOITER IN GANGS. "THEY ARE DROPOUTS WHO 
FAILED THEIR SCHOOL EXAMS," SAYS MUSA 
MOHIDDIN, AN EXECUTIVE WITH ROYAL BRUNEI 
AIRLINES. "THEY WON'T DO JOBS DONE BY THAIS 
AND BANGLADESHIS." UNEMPLOYMENT IS OFFICIALLY 
4.7, BUT AMONG YOUTHS IT IS AT LEAST DOUBLE 
THAT. 
 
24.  IN JULY TWO GANGS OF PUNKS HAD A RUMBLE 
IN THE YAYASAN SULTAN MALL. IT WAS MORE FOR 
SHOW THAN A REAL GANG TANGLE, BUT MANY FEAR 
THESE UNEMPLOYED YOUTHS WILL BE INTO DRUGS 
AND CRLME SOON -- IF THEY ARE NOT ALREADY. 
"THIS IS A BIG PROBLEM," SAYS A LAWYER, 
"YOUNG KIDS TAKING MARIJUANA, ECSTASY." A NEW 
DRUG REHAB CENTER HAS OPENED IN GADONG 
SUBURB. 
 
25.  THE ROOT OF UNEMPLOYMENT IS BRUNEI'S 
ECONOMIC RELIANCE ON OIL AWD GAS. CAREER 
OPPORTUNITIES ARE LIMITED. WITH INCREASED 
TECHNOLOGY, THERE IS LESS DEMAND FOR LABOR. 
HENCE, THE CONSTANT CALLS BY EVERYONE FROM HM 
DOWN TO DIVERSIFY THE ECONOMY. THE LATEST 
ATTEMPT IS THE PUSH TO TURN BRUNEI INTO A 
TOURIST HAVEN -- WHICH MEANS OPENING UP SO 
PEOPLE WANT TO VISIT. 
 
26.  OF COURSE, THERE ARE LIMITS. "YOU WANT 
SEX HOLIDAYS," CHUCKLES TOURISM DIRECTOR 
JAMALUDDIN. "GO TO A NEIGHBORING COUNTRY." 
MAYOR RAHMAN SAYS "THERE IS NO HANKY PANKY IN 
BANDAR." ACTUALLY, THERE IS -- AND NOT JUST 
IN THE PALACES. HOOKERS AND TRANSVESTITES 
HANG OUT AT VARIOUS LOCALES AROUND TOWN. MOST 
ARE ETHNIC CHINESE FROM MALAYSIA AND 
INDONESIA. ONE WESTERN CONSTRUCTION MANAGER 
ARRANGES "VISITING RIGHTS" FOR WOMEN TO KEEP 
HIS THAI AND BANGLADESHI WORKERS HAPPY. 
 
27.  RISING CRIME IS ANOTHER MATTER. 
BRUNEIANS WERE JOLTED THIS YEAR WHEN A GANG 
ROBBED THE TIONG HIN SUPERSTORE AND SHOT DEAD 
ONE OF THE OWNER'S FAMILY. EVEN MORE 
SHOCKING: THREE OF THE FELONS WERE SECURITY 
GUARDS. "THEY'LL BE HANGED," SAYS A LAWYER. 
BUT STERN PUNISHMENTS SEEM NO DETERRENT. 
PETTY THEFTS AND CAR-JACKINGS ARE ON THE 
RISE. THESE DAYS, FAMILIES TAKE FEW CHANCES: 
THERE ARE SECURITY BARS ON MOST WINDOWS. SAYS 
A DIPLOMAT: "BRUNEI ISN'T AS SAFE AS IT USED 
TO BE." 
 
28.  NOR IS IT AS ISLAMIC. FRIDAY IS A 
HOLIDAY, BUT SHOPS OPEN AND OTHER BUSINESS 
GOES ON. THERE IS NO SEGREGATION OF SEXES IN 
SUPERMARKETS AS IN MALAYSIA'S CONSERVATIVE 
KELANTAN STATE, NOR ARE WOMEN COVERED UP IN 
BILLBOARDS AND MOVIE ADS. MANY MUSLIM WOMEN 
PREFER NOT TO WEAR A HEADSCARF; THOSE WHO DO 
MAY LEAVE PART OF THE HAIR EXPOSED. IN THE 
ROYAL PHOTOS THAT ADORN MOST BUILDINGS, HM'S 
WIVES SHOW OFF THEIR CASCADING TRESSES. 
 
29.  ALSO, UNLIKE KELANTAN, THERE IS NO PUSH 
TO INSTITUTE HUDUD (ISLAMIC PENAL LAW 
PERMITTING AMPUTATIONS AND STONING). STILL, 
THERE ARE PROACTIVE ISLAMIC MEASURES, NOTABLY 
A SCHEME TO CONVERT NATIVE PEOPLE. "IF IBANS 
BECOME MUSLIMS WE PROVIDE A HOUSE FOR THEM," 
SAYS BRUNEI UNIVERSITY CHIEF ABU BAKAR APONG. 
WHILE SUCH PROGRAMS GO ON. AND CONSERVATIVES 
LIKE BADARUDDIN AND RAHMAN BRISTLE AT THE 
NOTION OF A MORE LIBERAL SOCIETY, THERE IS NO 
DOUBT BRUNEI CAN'T KEEP A WIRED WORLD AT BAY. 
CONSIDER THAT THE UNIVERSITY HAS A DEDICATED 
INTERNET LINE TO THE U.S. THAT IS NOT VETTED. 
 
30.  BRUNEI HAS A LONG WAY TO GO BEFORE IT 
CAN COMPARE WITH OTHER SOUTHEAST ASIAN 
STATES. JAMALUDDIN HOPES "TO LEARN FROM OTHER 
COUNTRIES THAT GO TOO FAST." NO ONE WANTS TO 
DISTURB THE COZY AFFLUENCE. "THIS IS THE BEST 
COUNTRY IN THE WORLD," SAYS A SMILING RAZALI. 
"WE ARE ALL HAPPY." THAT MAY BE OFFICIAL 
HYPE, BUT MOST DO SEEM GENUINELY CONTENT. 
"BRUNEI CAN DO ANYTHING IF IT WANTS." SAYS 
DAMIT CHUCHU, OF THE BANDAR-BASED EAST ASEAN 
BUSINESS COUNCIL. "WE HAVE LOTS OF MONEY. WE 
ONLY LACK EXPERTISE." 
 
31.  PERHAPS THAT IS ANOTHER REASON TO OPEN 
UP AND BRING IN TOURISTS AND EXPERTS. LET 
THEM SEE WHAT BRUNEI HAS TO OFFER AND DISPEL 
MISCONCEPTIONS. IN DOING SO, THERE MAY BE 
STARTLING CHANGES THAT WILL NEED ALL HM'S 
ASTUTENESS TO IMPLEMENT WITHOUT LOSING 
CONTROL. BUT IF IT CAN BE DONE, BRUNEIANS AND 
VISITORS WILL REAP THE REWARDS. THE TOURISM 
CHIEF SEES EXAMPLES IN OTHER "LIBERALIZING" 
SLAMIC STATES IN THE PERSIAN GULF. "PERHAPS 
WE SHOULD BE LIKE OMAN AND LEGALIZE SOME 
HOTELS TO SERVE DRINKS," SAYS JAMALUDDIN 
"TOURISTS NEED NIGHTLIFE. CHAMPAGNE ON THE 
BALCONY, GAZING AT THE SUNSET." VIVA, BRUNEI! 
 
32.  CHARGE'S COMMENT:  THE IRONY OF MITTEN'S 
ARTICLE IS THAT IT HAS POSSIBLY ACCOMPLISHED 
TWO THINGS THAT IT DIDN'T INTEND.  FIRST, IT 
HAS PROBABLY CAUSED THE SULTAN AND PRINCE 
JEFRI TO CLOSE RANKS.  THEY APPEAR CLOSER NOW 
THAN THEY WERE IN FEBRUARY WHEN JEFRI 
RESIGNED AS FINANCE MINISTER. SECONDLY, 
BECAUSE OF ITS SEEDY "REVELATIONS"  IT 
STRENGTHENS THE HAND OF THE RELIGIOUS 
CONSERVATIVES IN THE COUNTRY, WHO UNDER THE 
MANTLE OF ISLAMIZATION, OPPOSE POLITICAL AND 
SOCIAL REFORM,  BY BELITTLING THE EFFORTS 
BRUNEI IS MAKING TO MODERNIZE. 
 
END TEXT. 
 
MOORE