US embassy cable - 05MUSCAT164

UNCLAS E F T O SECTION 01 OF 02 MUSCAT 000164 
 
SIPDIS 
 
SENSITIVE/NOFORN 
 
DEPT FOR NEA/ARPI (TROBERTS), G/TIP, DRL/IL (JDEMARIA), 
STATE PASS USTR (JBUNTIN, WCLATANOFF) 
 
E.O. 12958: DECL: 01/31/2015 
TAGS: PHUM, SCUL, PGOV, ELAB, MU, Trafficking in Persons/Camel Racing 
SUBJECT: A DAY AT THE (CAMEL) RACES 
 
Classified By: Ambassador Richard L. Baltimore III. 
Reason: 1.4 (d). 
 
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SUMMARY 
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1. (SBU/NF)  In contrast to the high-stakes commercial camel 
racing popular elsewhere in the Gulf, camel racing in Oman is 
a decidedly more humble, traditional event primarily 
practiced by rural Bedouin tribes.  PolOff recently attended 
a typical race in Oman's dusty Sharqiyah region, observing 
how local villagers and officials organized their modest 
event, and tracking the action up close from a speeding jeep. 
 The races, which are usually not widely advertised and can 
be difficult to locate, were manifestly part of the cultural 
heritage of the Bedouin people.  The jockeys observed were 
primarily children from the local Bedouin families who breed 
and race their own mounts.  End Summary. 
 
2. (SBU/NF)  Oman differentiates itself from the 
commercialism of camel racing in nearby countries by focusing 
on the Bedouin heritage of the activity.  According to one 
Omani official, camel racing should be viewed as a part of 
Oman's heritage, culture and religion.  From ancient times, 
he said, the culture demanded that all men should learn to do 
three things in life: ride a camel, swim, and shoot.  PolOff 
recently witnessed a typical Omani camel race in the 
official's home village to compare his depiction of the 
situation with reality. 
 
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CAMEL RACING FIRST HAND 
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3. (SBU/NF)  Observing a camel race in Oman is no easy task. 
Races usually occur during holidays and local festivals, with 
prior publication of the race date (if any) only a week or 
two in advance of the event.  A small newspaper article will 
usually list the town and approximate date the race is 
scheduled to occur.  To outsiders, it may prove difficult to 
actually locate a racetrack once he or she finds the town. 
The courses are usually well off the beaten path and not 
easily discovered without a guide.  PolOff was escorted to 
the races by a friend native to the venue's region.  The 
relative informality of the races was noteworthy.  Unlike 
equestrian venues in America, there was no simultaneous 
telecast on large screen TV's around an organized, fenced-in, 
and well-identified racetrack.  The traditional "courses" in 
Oman consist of some bar fencing or sand bags on either side 
of the racing lanes (about 12 meters across), and are 
anywhere from 2 - 6 kilometers in length.  The racetracks are 
difficult to distinguish from the surrounding desert save for 
a few grandstands at the more organized races during the Eid 
holidays. 
 
4. (SBU/NF)  While race times are not published, PolOff was 
taken to the course at around 7:30 am to ensure that none of 
the action was missed.  Races usually start early in the 
morning, with several heats, and tend to last no more than an 
hour.  Dignitaries and VIP's crowd around the seating circle 
at the finish line, while many other spectators are jammed 
into their 4WD vehicles to race along the track (a traffic 
danger in itself) with the camels. 
 
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KID JOCKEYS, YOUNG AND LOCAL 
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5. (SBU/NF)  Camels in Oman are primarily bred by the local 
Bedouin population and raced by their own children, mostly 
boys but also a few girls.  According to contacts at two 
different ministries, the government has suggested (but not 
mandated) that riders be aged between 12-15 years old. 
However, of the jockeys PolOff observed, on average, most 
riders appeared to be between the ages of 3-5 years old. 
With helmets, cane and full riding gear, the children were 
secured into the seat of the camel.  (Note:  PolOff's escort 
said that he had heard of "fewer than 3 cases in 10 years" of 
children being injured after falling from their perch.  End 
note.)  A few riders had transistor radios tied to their 
waists so that instructions could be heard from their 
counterparts riding alongside.  The racing heats PolOff 
observed were quick and relatively uneventful, usually with 
one camel far outpacing the rest.  Before preparing for her 
next heat, one little girl, Zahra (appeared aged 3), 
inquisitively sat next to PolOff with her uncle as she 
placidly awaited her turn to get back on her camel. 
 
6. (SBU/NF)  Money, wealth, and fame -- awards often 
associated with commercial camel racing in neighboring 
countries --  are not the norm in Oman.  On the day Zahra 
raced, no prizes were handed out.  It was a local race in a 
small village with Bedouin who had come to town from nearby 
desert camps.  Lacking government funding, these races 
require local committees to take charge of organization and 
raising funds to offer prizes during festival periods.  While 
for the most part the Bedouin breed and race camels locally, 
they occasionally succeed in selling some animals to wealthy 
shaykhs.  In such instances, the Bedouin family often 
receives a percentage of the camel's future prize money. 
Betting is strictly forbidden in Oman and no wagering of any 
kind was apparent in this local race. 
 
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COMMENT 
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7. (SBU/NF) While the children are young for their 
apprenticeship, they appear healthy and well cared for. 
PolOff observed no instances of children crying for their 
parents or being forced to get on their camel.  Omani 
officials claim there have been no abuses that would 
necessitate government regulation of what is a traditional 
expression of Omani heritage and culture practiced by local 
Bedouins and their families.  At these races, PolOff observed 
nothing that would contradict that assertion. 
BALTIMORE